Ancient laurel trees standing in mist in the Fanal forest on Madeira
laurel-forest

Fanal

Distance
≈30 km · 35 min by road
Best time
Early morning, or any time the cloud is sitting on the ridge
Getting there
By car from Calheta over Paul da Serra, then the ER209 along the ridge
Good for
Photography, Walking, Laurisilva, Half day

Ancient laurel trees on the ridge above Madeira's north coast, at their best in the fog — about 35 minutes from Calheta across the plateau.

At a glance

Detail
What it is A stand of ancient til (laurel) trees on high grassland
From Calheta ≈30 km · 35 min over the plateau
Altitude Around 1,150 m — expect cloud
Best for Photography, and one of the strangest landscapes on the island

Fanal is one of the few places where the weather is the attraction. The trees — old, low, wind-bent laurels standing apart on open pasture — are handsome in sunshine and extraordinary in fog, which is why almost every photograph of them is grey.

From Calheta the route is the same climb onto Paul da Serra as for Rabaçal, then west along the ridge. It is roughly 35 minutes, and you will usually be able to see from the plateau whether the cloud is where you want it.

What to do

Walk. There is a marked trail through the trees and around the grassland, and the whole point is to move slowly and let the fog do the work. It is not a long visit — an hour or two — which makes Fanal a natural pairing with Porto Moniz or Seixal on the same day.

Practical notes

  • There is no shelter and no café. Bring what you need.
  • Cold and wet up here even when Calheta is in shorts weather.
  • Livestock graze the pasture; leave gates as you find them.

Terrain

High grassland and ancient laurel woodland at around 1,150 m

Best Time

Early morning, or any time the cloud is sitting on the ridge

Best For

PhotographyWalkingLaurisilvaHalf day

Location

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is Fanal famous?+

For a stand of very old, wind-shaped til trees on open grassland at around 1,150 m. When cloud rolls over the ridge — which is often — the trees appear and disappear in the fog, and that is the image the place is known for.

When should you go to Fanal?+

In mist. A clear blue day at Fanal is a pleasant meadow with old trees; a foggy one is the reason people drive up. Early morning gives you both the best odds and the emptiest car park.

Is Fanal part of the UNESCO laurisilva?+

It sits within Madeira's laurel forest, listed by UNESCO in 1999 and protected within the island's Natural Park. Stay on the marked paths and off the tree roots.