Madeira's roads come in two kinds, and Calheta is a good place to meet both.
The expressway
The VR1/VE3 runs the length of the south coast in tunnels and on viaducts. It is modern, fast and completely undemanding, Funchal to Calheta in 35–50 minutes, the airport in about an hour. If all you do is arrive, drive to the beach and drive back, you will wonder what the fuss is about.
Everything else
Turn off it and the island reasserts itself. The ER101 and the older coast roads are narrow, steep and blind in places. The descent to Paul do Mar is a switchback down a cliff (there is also a tunnel). The lanes in Jardim do Mar are cobbled and too narrow for cars, so park above and walk.
Up on Paul da Serra, the ER105 and ER110 cross open plateau at around 1,400 m. The surface is fine; the hazards are visibility and wind. Mist forms fast, there is no shelter and no fuel on top, and roads can close in bad weather.
What car to hire
The smallest one you are comfortable in. Nothing about this coast rewards a large car, and several things punish it: village lanes, switchbacks, and levada car parks that fill early and were not laid out for SUVs.
Book at the airport and pick up on arrival. There is no useful public-transport alternative for the levadas or the west-coast villages.
Parking
- Calheta seafront, parking at the marina beside the beach.
- MUDAS museum, parking on site, up the hill.
- Rabaçal, park at the top off the ER105; the access road down to the forestry house is walked or shuttled. Arrive early in summer.
- Jardim do Mar. Use the marked areas above the village.
- Paul do Mar, along the seafront.
Practical points
- Fuel up before crossing the plateau.
- Take a layer for altitude even in summer; Rabaçal is routinely 8–10 °C colder than the beach, and windier.
- Check the official trail and road status before driving up. Closures are common and not always signposted from below.
- Portugal drives on the right. Emergency number is 112.
For where these roads actually take you, see the best day trips from Calheta; for the drive in from the airport, getting to Calheta. And before committing to a mountain route, read the cloud line. The plateau can be in thick fog while the coast is in full sun.
FAQ
Is driving in Madeira difficult? The expressways are easy. The old coast and mountain roads are narrow and steep, and that is where the driving actually happens.
What size hire car should I get from Calheta? Small. The village lanes, the Paul do Mar switchbacks and the levada car parks all favour it.
Can Paul da Serra be closed? Yes, in bad weather. In mist, wind or ice the plateau roads and the marked trails can both close. Check before you commit.
Is there parking at the Rabaçal trailhead? There is parking at the top off the ER105, and it fills early in summer. The access road down to the forestry house is walked or shuttled.
